What is exfoliation?
Written by Jessica Tapia, MD
Exfoliation is the removal of dead skin cells and those that accumulate in the outer layer of the skin: the epidermis.
You can use a chemical or physical exfoliation method (more on this soon) to remove old cells. This prevents clogged pores and reveals fresher, healthier skin underneath.
La exfoliación ayuda al proceso natural de renovación celular de la piel. Este proceso comienza en la capa más profunda de la epidermis donde “nacen” células nuevas.
Estas células jóvenes viajan hacia las otras capas de la epidermis hasta llegar a la superficie de la piel. Una vez que llegan a este punto y se asientan aquí, las células que antes eran nuevas se mueren y se vuelven secas y escamosas.
In the meantime, a fresh batch of new cells rises from the deeper layers to the surface of our body to replace the dead and dry cells.
La renovación de las células de la piel es un proceso natural, pero se desacelera con la edad. Como regla general, este proceso ocurre en pieles jóvenes y sanas aproximadamente cada 28 días. La exfoliación es un paso esencial en la rutina de cuidado de la piel, ya que permite la absorción de nutrientes y prepara la piel para otros productos de cuidado.
Once you get older, this process takes much longer, between 40 and 60 days, or even longer. This means that those dry, flaky cells are replaced slowly. This causes skin problems, such as dullness, uneven skin tone, and breakouts due to clogged pores.
What are the best exfoliating ingredients?
Los mejores ingredientes exfoliantes contienen agentes que exfolian suavemente la piel sin alterar su salud.
These are the best exfoliating ingredients we recommend:
Glycolic acid (AHA)
Lactic acid (AHA)
Salicylic Acid (BHA)
Fruit enzymes
Bamboo Extract
But we'll talk about that later!
The many benefits of skin exfoliation
Helps clear congested skin by unclogging pores.
The longer dead and dry skin cells remain on the skin's surface, the greater the risk of them clogging pores and congesting the skin.
Along with oil and other debris, dead cells are easily trapped inside the pore, creating the ideal environment for bacteria to thrive. This can lead to acne-related skin problems, ranging from mild forms, such as blackheads and whiteheads, to severe forms, such as acne cysts and nodules.
Regular, gentle exfoliation is one solution to controlling congested skin and removing dead skin cells. Exfoliation removes dead skin cells and unclogs pores to keep them clean. This minimizes the possibility of acne-forming bacteria growing inside the pores and causing breakouts.
It can minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Exfoliation cannot eliminate fine lines and wrinkles but can help minimize their appearance. When you exfoliate and remove the top layer of dead skin, the skin looks smoother, and fine lines become less pronounced.
Helps promote a brighter, more even skin tone.
A face needing a good skin exfoliation session appears thick and dull due to the buildup of old cells. Removing dead cells can instantly leave skin looking brighter and fresher. Over time, skin tone improves, and the appearance of hyperpigmentation can be minimized.
Allows other products to penetrate deeper.
Completamos la lista con uno de los beneficios menos conocidos de la exfoliación.
¿Sabías que la exfoliación puede ayudar a maximizar los beneficios de los ingredientes de tus otros productos para el cuidado de la piel?
Sin una capa de células muertas en su camino, los sérums, cremas hidratantes y mascarillas penetran más profundamente en la piel.
If a product is rich in active and nourishing ingredients, it makes sense that the better it is absorbed by the skin, the better the results.
How to exfoliate the skin: chemical vs. physical methods
Hay dos tipos de métodos de exfoliación que se pueden llevar a cabo: físicos y químicos.
They share the same goals - to remove dead skin cells, help accelerate cell turnover, and leave skin brighter and smoother - but they do it differently.
Understanding how each method works is important when choosing the best exfoliator for your skin type and concerns.
Physical exfoliation
Physical exfoliating products contain tiny particles, such as jojoba beads or sugar granules.
They require you to manually rub the product into the skin to allow the particles to do their job and remove dead skin.
Otros ejemplos de exfoliación física incluyen tratamientos de microdermoabrasión, utilizar una piedra pómez o cualquier toallita facial con una superficie texturizada que elimine la piel muerta y los residuos. También puedes usar un cepillo como una herramienta efectiva para la exfoliación física.
If you choose an exfoliating facial cleanser, avoid harsh ingredients such as crushed fruits and nut shells unless they are very finely ground.
Las partículas más grandes pueden ser súper abrasivas y causar lo que se conoce como un “micro” desgarro en la piel que daña la barrera cutánea.
Chemical peel
Other facial exfoliants are chemical exfoliants that fall into categories, including AHA (alpha hydroxy acids), BHA (beta hydroxy acids), and fruit enzymes.
Don't let the term "acidic" scare you. These ingredients can be great for the skin.
Instead of relying on mechanical movement to remove cells from the face, the acids dissolve the "glue" that binds the dead cells together, helping to loosen and slough off the skin.
Common types of acids and enzymes include:
Glycolic acid (AHA) is an exfoliant found naturally in plants such as sugar cane and citrus fruits.
Lactic acid (AHA), a hero of sensitive skin, is the acid group's mildest but most effective exfoliant.
Salicylic acid (BHA) Salicylic acid is more oil soluble than AHAs.
This means that while it exfoliates the skin's surface, it also reaches deeper and unclogs pores, removing sebum and impurities.
Fruit enzymes in some fruits break down keratin proteins attached to dead cells and reveal fresher, brighter skin underneath.
Which method is right for your skin?
Depending on your skin type and concern, you can choose a physical exfoliant, a chemical exfoliant, or a combination of both.
Physical Exfoliation
As mentioned above, the best physical exfoliants are made of smaller, finer particles that are not abrasive to the skin.
Physical exfoliants can also be combined with fruit enzymes to remove dead skin cells gently but effectively.
How do you exfoliate the skin with a physical exfoliator?
Apply a small amount to clean, damp skin.
Massage the product into your skin with small, light, circular movements around your face, and never apply too much pressure.
Doing so can aggravate the skin and, depending on the type of scrub, can even cause microtears.
Chemical peel
Normal and combination skin
Glycolic acid has the #1 title of having the smallest molecular structure of the AHA group. This means your skin absorbs it quickly and works faster than other AHAs. It also has water-attracting properties and can help treat uneven skin tone, reduce the appearance of pores, combat dullness, fine lines, and acne scarring.
Sensitive, dry, and mature skin
As a plus, lactic acid (AHA) is an excellent all-rounder and a gentler exfoliant option for sensitive and mature skin. Lactic acid is a detoxifier and more hydrating than glycolic acid.
Oily and breakout-prone skin
Salicylic acid (BHA) has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it a compelling choice for acne and breakouts.
How often should you exfoliate your skin?
It is important to listen to your skin to know how often you should exfoliate. Still, we can help you with some general guidelines.
Normal and oily skin types can generally be treated 1 to 3 times per week with a mild exfoliant.
If you use a more potent exfoliant, reduce it to once a week.
If you have sensitive or dry skin, perform a gentle exfoliation session once a week.
“La exfoliación es el proceso de eliminación de células muertas de la capa externa de la piel, lo que ayuda a destapar los poros, mejorar el tono y la textura de la piel, y permitir una mejor absorción de otros productos.
Existen dos métodos principales: la exfoliación física (con partículas o herramientas) y la química (con ácidos o enzimas).
La frecuencia y el tipo de exfoliación deben adaptarse al tipo de piel, siendo importante no exagerar para evitar irritación o daño a la barrera cutánea.”
