Hyaluronic Acid 101
Written by Jessica Tapia, MD
As an aesthetic doctor at Juvenalia Brío, I am sometimes asked by our patients about specific ingredients in skincare products.
Take into account
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a natural ingredient in many products, such as serums, moisturizers, masks, and lipsticks.
Search for skincare tips, and you'll be sure to find products with hyaluronic acid quickly.
Hyaluronic acid is a substance found in our bodies. We all produce it naturally. If you weigh around 70 kilograms, you have about 15 grams of hyaluronic acid, contributing to healthy skin.
This well-known ingredient in the skincare world, in the last decade, has gone from being only for medical treatments to being part of our daily routines.
It may be strange to apply an acid on your face to moisturize it since acids usually dry out the skin, not hydrate it. But hyaluronic acid has been scientifically proven to do just that.
Unfortunately, because hyaluronic acid is so popular, it cannot be easy to distinguish between its reality and false advertising. Many skincare brands make empty promises about how and why hyaluronic acid works and the results you can expect.
At Juvenalia Brío, we are convinced that knowing product facts is essential in your search. For this reason, we hope that this article will help you avoid unnecessary expenses on products or treatments that are not effective.
Here's all the information you need about hyaluronic acid. You will learn about its benefits, what results you can expect, and what possible side effects it may have.
Characteristics of hyaluronic acid
In much simpler terms, hyaluronic acid is a substance that our body generates to keep our skin and connective tissue hydrated and healthy. It is also a type of molecular sugar present in the body.
As previously mentioned, our body produces hyaluronic acid naturally. We constantly have 10 to 20 grams of this substance in our body.
Half of the hyaluronic acid in our body is found in the skin to keep it hydrated. In addition, hyaluronic acid replenishes skin cells.
This is why many people choose to use a moisturizer with hyaluronic acid. Dehydrated skin without sufficient hyaluronic acid can appear dull, with less firmness and more visible wrinkles. Hyaluronic acid helps to improve skin elasticity and firmness.
The amount of hyaluronic acid your body produces decreases over time. Starting at the age of 25. This reduction of hyaluronic acid affects the firmness of the skin.
This reduction in the production of hyaluronic acid - as well as the production of other substances, such as collagen - affects the texture and elasticity of your skin, causing the appearance of wrinkles and other age-related problems.
In the skincare world, hyaluronic acid is used in two main ways. Its functions include hydration, lubrication and cell support.
The first, and the one we are dedicated to apply, is fillers, which have become very popular for their effectiveness and safety when applied in the correct way.
We use hyaluronic acid fillers to reduce wrinkles, eliminate acne scars, and plump up depressions that may develop in the skin. Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide naturally present in the skin, joints and cartilage.
In addition to using hyaluronic acid in injectable fillers, you can find it as an ingredient in topical products such as creams, masks and serums. Hyaluronic acid is a natural molecule present in the human body.
What does hyaluronic acid do?
Before answering this question, it is essential to differentiate injectable hyaluronic acid (available through aesthetic doctors like us) from topical hyaluronic acid treatments available in pharmacies and supermarkets.
It is also important to distinguish artificial hyaluronic acid (the type found in injectable fillers and topical creams) from the natural hyaluronic acid that your body produces and uses.
Hyaluronic acid in the skin binds water (up to 1,000 its molecular weight) and makes your skin stay hydrated and healthy.
In addition, hyaluronic acid helps keep your skin hydrated by attracting and retaining water, improving its texture and counteracting the effects of aging. It also helps with the maintenance of other parts of your body, including your eyes, joints and connective tissue.
Over time, factors such as sun exposure and aging can reduce the amount of hyaluronic acid your body produces.
Hyaluronic Acid Skin Products
Hyaluronic acid products can be classified into three categories: injectable dermal fillers, topical skin care products, and oral hyaluronic acid supplements.
Hyaluronic Acid Fillers
Hyaluronic acid is perhaps best known for its use as fillers or facial fillers. In aesthetic medicine, it is used to hydrate, plump and rejuvenate the skin. These liquid gel fillers are used to smooth wrinkles and fine lines.
The most popular facial fillers containing hyaluronic acid are available under the trade names of:
Juvederm®, Restylane®, Teoxane® and Pefectha®.
Many studies have found hyaluronic acid fillers to be effective in slowing and covering the signs of aging, mainly by helping to make folds and wrinkles in the facial skin less visible.
With the use of fillers, the results of hyaluronic acid are not permanent.
On average, you will need to repeat this type of treatment every 6 to 9 months for long-lasting results, as the injected fillers gradually break down once in your body.
Injectable hyaluronic acid is not available over the counter at your local pharmacy. It is a medical treatment that you should discuss with an aesthetic doctor.
Topical Hyaluronic Acid Products
Visit the skincare section of your nearest pharmacy, and you will find many creams, cleansers, serums, and other products containing hyaluronic acid.
When used topically, hyaluronic acid's effects on the skin differ significantly from those of injectable hyaluronic acid.
Thanks to its ability to retain water, topical use of hyaluronic acid can help your skin to be more hydrated and firmer.
Like injectable hyaluronic acid, topical products containing hyaluronic acid can also make wrinkles less visible.
Benefits of Hyaluronic Acid
From a skincare perspective, the main benefits of hyaluronic acid are:
Fewer wrinkles, less visible. When hydrating the skin, hyaluronic acid can give it volume and soften expression lines.
Improved texture. Products with hyaluronic acid can improve the texture of your skin by making it look and feel smoother and with fewer imperfections.
More hydrated and firmer skin. We know hyaluronic acid for its ability to retain water. So, by using it on your skin, you could see firmer, well-hydrated skin.
There is less skin irritation. In its topical version, hyaluronic acid is FDA-approved to treat dermatitis, such as eczema and contact allergies. Faster wound healing. Hyaluronic acid can improve the skin's ability to heal wounds.
Faster wound healing. Hyaluronic acid can improve the skin's ability to heal wounds.
Topical Hyaluronic Acid Limits
Over the past few decades, hyaluronic acid has gone from a popular substance used primarily in medical aesthetic treatments to the most popular ingredient among skin care products available to the general public.
Like many other ingredients that go from being somewhat popular to essential, some of the promises we see in marketing are not entirely true.
Others are honestly misleading, or in some cases, outright lies without any scientific evidence.
That's why it's important to understand what hyaluronic acid can and (perhaps even more importantly) can't do for your skin.
Based on recent scientific data, for sure hyaluronic acid:
Does not treat Acne Breakouts
Hyaluronic acid is famous in skincare and is now found in acne creams.
However, no scientific evidence confirms that this component can reduce or prevent the intensity of acne outbreaks.
Does not treat scars
While various research shows that injectable hyaluronic acid may be effective in treating scars that can develop from acne breakouts, there is no scientific evidence that topical hyaluronic acid can fill or soften facial scars.
Does not protect you from the sun
Many skincare brands that promote the use of hyaluronic acid to combat the signs of aging have been quick to add it to their sunscreen line.
While topical hyaluronic acid helps keep skin hydrated, there is no evidence that it offers sun protection.
If you use any skin care products with hyaluronic acid, we recommend using a water-resistant sunscreen with SPF 30+ if you will be outdoors in sunny weather.
Provide Results Similar to Fillers
Due to misleading advertising, people often think that topical hyaluronic acid products have the same effect as injectable fillers.
It is important to know that hyaluronic acid molecules are of different sizes. The large ones stay in the outer layer of the skin, and the small ones, such as those in injectable fillers, can penetrate to the deepest layer.
This means that topical hyaluronic acid skin care products work only on the most superficial layer of the skin.
Completely Prevent Aging
Like other skin treatments, hyaluronic acid works best to reduce aging marks rather than stop them completely.
Hyaluronic Acid Side Effects
Data show that hyaluronic acid is very safe to use. Like any skin product, hyaluronic acid may cause side effects, but this is rare.
Hyaluronic acid, when consumed orally, has proven to be safe in the long term, with no side effects. When applied topically, it is usually well tolerated, causing no allergies or irritation.
In the form of facial filler can cause effects such as pain, bruising, itching, redness and swelling. These usually only last a few days and may improve with a cold compress or ice pack.
If you are considering injectable hyaluronic acid, your provider may recommend avoiding certain medications or supplements before the procedure.
“Siendo uno de los ingredientes más populares en el mundo del skincare, el ácido hialurónico tiene la reputación de ser un ingrediente que puede hacer magia en tu piel.
La investigación muestra que, al menos hasta cierto punto, esta reputación es merecida.
Si tienes arrugas u otros signos de envejecimiento que te gustaría tratar, los productos que contienen ácido hialurónico pueden servir como una excelente base para tu rutina de skincare.”
